In this episode3 of our “DC project”, we’ll explore 3 more versions of the DC:
– double crochet in the 3rd loop
– front post double crochet
– back post double crochet
First, choose your yarn. No fun fur or bouclé yarn, you want neat stitch definition for this project.
I’m using the long-discontinued Rowan “All seasons cotton”
You’ll also want to have enough of this yarn to make ALL the samples of the series (sot they can all be compared). I’d say have at least 200 m…
Choose a hook which works well with this yarn: crocheted fabric should be not too tight, not too loose. I’m using a 5 mm (H) Susan Bates hook
Step 1 – REGULAR DC = DC IN BOTH LOOPS
Let’s start our sampler with 6 rows of DC in both loops as a reference to compare the other stitches to.
Turn and work a double crochet (dc) in 4th chain from hook. Then dc in each chain across. Turn work. You should have 20 sts (including initial ch3, which counts as 1st st. I know there are options for this, but let’s keep this for later)
We’re now going to insert the hook under BOTH loops of each stitch: when you look the top of the stitches, you see a “V” sitting on top of each dc. Both legs of the V = both loops.
You have now 6 rows of dc in both loops. Mark last row of dc in back loop with a stitch marker.
Step 2 – DC IN THE THIRD LOOP
After working in the front or back loop in Episode 1, let’s discover yet a new place to insert our hook into: the third loop !
If you look at the front/ right side of your work, you’ll see a little horizontal bar sitting at top of each stitch: it’s the 3rd loop.
Insert your hook in this loop, from front to back.
Next 6 rows: ch3, 19 dc in 3rd loop, turn [20 sts]
Soon enough you’ll see clear lines of “V”s appearing on the wrong side while working a row. Those will produce lines separating each set of 2 rows, a little like when working in the front loop, but more visible.
You have now 6 rows of dc in 3rd loop. Mark last row of dc in 3rd loop with a stitch marker.
Step 3 – FRONT POST DC
Now this one is a bit more common, so you might already suspect that you’ll be crocheting AROUND the post (=vertical part of each dc) of each dc.
For the front post dc, insert your hook around the post while working on the front /right side of the work: insert hook from front to back in between 2 posts, then come back after post of the dc from back to front to RS of fabric again.
Work 6 rows in Front post dc (often abbreviated Fpdc): ch3, 19 dc in front post, turn. [19 sts]
Fabric is now highly textured, with deep crevices on either side and high ridges.
Step 4 – BACK POST DC
And of course, after working in the front post, let’s work in the BACK POST this time. Will it look just the same, just the other way round ?
This time again, we’ll work around the post. But this time, your hook is in the back of work, poking though the fabric from back to front, around the post, then back to the wrong side of work again.
Work 6 rows in Back post dc (often abbreviated Bpdc): ch3, 19 dc in backt post, turn. [19 sts]
Again, a LOT of texture and sharp ridges. But same or different ? I’ll let you take a closer look and will be back with my own conclusion in Episode 4 next week ;-)
Step 5 – SEPARATING visually each stitch
Just as we did for first sampler, let’s separate each section by a line of surface crochet, using the stitch markers to visualize where to stitch.
Holding working yarn UNDER work (= on WS), work in loose slip stitch so as not to alter width of sampler. Fasten Off.
Finally, admire your sampler ! Can you spot any difference, or decide which best use could be applied to each variation ? I’ll be back in Episode 4 next week with my conclusions.
Once again, please share your pictures and comments on my Facebook page !!
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